Another year goes by and yet again, like the past couple of years, gone in the blink of an eye. As I reflect upon the year 2023, it feels like an unusual year for me. Unusual, because this year was primarily dedicated to work. I have always maintained that work is just a small part of life, not life itself. That’s how it has been for me all along. Sticking to this principle has had its own fallouts though, which are both good and bad. I did miss out on those promotions and special hikes, even though I had the capability and potential (at least I think so). It was a conscious choice, as it gave me the opportunity to gain substantially from other aspects of life’s experiences. You can never have it all. And, I have no complaints. I have not been and never will be in the rat race.
This year, however, I deviated from this self-created motto of life and a large part of my life has revolved around my job. This was not how I had planned it though. I just had no choice. But the outcome of this forced situation has been an important realization. Fulfillment can come in any form and that can be work too. Probably I’ll write about that another time rather than derailing from this post of my reflections of the year 2023.
Here’s a gist of the year 2023 as it was for me:
The year had started off on a bad note with certain serious health issues in the family. The month of January was a tough one.
Work was hectic as I already mentioned. I have never been so busy with work in my entire life.
Travel did happen from time to time, yet to write about them all.
I started the year by traveling to Palakad, Kerala where I spent a weekend at a friend’s home.
Thereafter we visited the town of Shravanbelagola to see the 57-foot tall monolithic Gommateshwara statue. This was the second time I had been there. On the same day we visited the tiny town of Melkote. It was one of the most charming places I have ever experienced.
In the month of April, I visited Majuli – the river island in Brahmaputra. It was one of the best things I did in the year 2023. During that time, I also spent a few days in Guwahati and finally went home to Shillong. The Shillong trip was special as my close friend, ‘R’, joined along.
Sometime during the middle of the year, I went for a short and simple hike along with a couple of friends somewhere in the border of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu. We also spent a wonderful time in the wilderness along the banks of River Cauvery.
In the month of October, my sister and I walked up to Kedarnath, then walked up to Tunganath and Chandrashila. After that we went to Badrinath. Along the way, we visited some very interesting temples. During this trip, we walked 100 Km. in just 5 days.
I ended the year exploring lesser-known Hoysala temples in the villages of Karnataka’s Hassan district.
A notable highlight of the year was my cousin’s relocation to Bangalore. Interestingly, she has joined the same workplace as me. The entire process, from scouting for a suitable rented place to establishing her new home, demanded a substantial investment of my time and energy. Another thing that kept me very busy this year.
Despite my hectic schedule, I have managed to maintain my disciplined lifestyle, prioritizing Yoga and Meditation. I had also begun teaching yoga in my apartment but had to discontinue due to irregular participation.
I’ve made an important decision in my life—tad bit risky, I would say. The specifics, I’ll leave for another time. I simply wish to document this for the sake of my own posterity.
I’ll conclude this list with something that pinches the most. I scarcely blogged this year. No excuses. I had enough and more to write about. Could have carved out some time too, but I didn’t. Glad I wrote this one at least!
It was the time of Christmas. I was just whiling away time at home, literally doing nothing at all. Not like I had no work to do but it was Christmas and my laundry list of pending tasks was too mundane for the holiday season. I didn’t feel like even thinking about those, let alone completing them. The most boring Christmas was happening to me. I had no clue what to do. I had no plans at all. I wished to go to some place but didn’t know where. I checked out a couple of options that came to mind, but nothing seemed feasible. There was hardly any availability and prices were skyrocketing for those that were. My family was busy, everyone had a plan of their own. I thought I’d catch up with those friends who I haven’t met in a while. None of them were available, not surprising at all.
“Welcome to the new normal.”, I said to myself. Perhaps this is how Christmas is going to happen henceforth. Either I need to get used to it or plan months in advance. Being back from a holiday at the end of October, was primarily the reason of not having any plans for Christmas. Just when I had accepted the fact and settled down with the idea of having a quiet and lonely Christmas all by myself, I happened to connect with my friend, ‘S’ who I hadn’t met or connected with in a very long time.
As we chatted, I was intrigued to know about his newfound hobby. He’s been traveling to the villages of Karnataka and documenting the local stories and legends of the lesser known or dilapidated Hoysala Temples. He talks to the villagers, gathers their stories or folklore that have been passed on to them from their ancestors. He then documents all the information he gathers in his website. He doesn’t care about the authenticity. He doesn’t care if his work will serve any purpose. His only aim is to preserve these stories before they are lost forever. A very noble idea I thought!
What are Hoysala Temples? The Hoysala Temples were built between 11th and 14th century by the the Hoysala Dynasty, who ruled almost all of what is now Karnataka. Known for their soapstone sculptures and star-shaped plan, Hoysala temples are distinctive in their architectural style. Their artistic brilliance is stunning, an extraordinary sheer treat to the eyes.
He was off to another such trip towards the Hassan district of Karnataka the very next day. He invited me to join along. Obviously, I couldn’t say no! The following day we covered a couple of such temples. Some pictures and descriptions are provided below. I did not bother to note the names of the villages or the temples, quite purposefully. Just enjoyed the entire experience of watching life happening in these villages.
Village – 1
The temple here was reconstructed and parts of the temple wore a modern look as seen in the second picture below. Some temple parts also lay scattered here and there. The villagers could not give us any stories and asked us to wait for the priest who was arriving from a nearby town. The priest got delayed and we left after clicking a few pictures.
Village – 2
This one was interesting. Each time ‘S’ enquired about the temple, villagers pointed in the direction of a waterbody. We could see no temple there other than a waterbody, not sure if I should call it a lake or a marshland (4th picture). Eventually we found an elderly man, who explained that the temple no longer exists. The ruins remain underwater for most part of the year. He led us into the marshland and a few meters into it, we could see the temple ruins covered completely in bushes and shrub. The vegetation was so thick that it wasn’t possible to step inside though we could see portions of the ruin. Some remnants lay strewn around in the ground (3rd picture). The ironical part was that it had a ‘Protected Monument’ board that was standing intact. Seeing our disappointment, the elderly man was quick to explain that he preferred the water body to the temple. It gives life to his crops.
Village – 3
The original temple in this village has long vanished, only the idol remains. The villagers built a new temple for the idol. Some old structures still remain scattered around the temple. The 1st picture is the village school and the 2nd is their homes.
Village – 4
There were two Keshava idols in this village that were kept in a makeshift shed while a new temple was being built. The priest explained that main idol facing the door was found in Arabian Sea many years ago. The other one was found in Hemavati River just 2-3 years ago.
Village – 5
Here we found a bunch of enthusiastic people eager to tell the story of their village temple. They narrated the story of a Rishi who had arrived in their village and went on to explain how he instructed them to dig the ground where they discovered the idol. And soon after that the Rishi disappeared making them believe that he was God’s messenger or God himself in disguise. There were a couple of temples here both old and new. The idol in one of the temples was won in a war – the 2nd picture. The 1st picture is remnants of the old temple, the idol inside this is the 3rd picture.
Village – 6
The temple in this village was almost intact and functional. Only certain portions were renovated. It was of typical Hoysala architecture but most of it was devoid of the intricate sculptures, only a few places had the decorative carvings. The priest informed that the temple was incomplete because a war had broken out at that time and there was nobody to complete the ornate sculptures.
It was a very long day and in the end I was happy that Christmas of 2023 was not boring afterall.
“I really wanted to visit Kamakhya Temple at this time, but it didn’t work out,” said my cousin, quite nonchalantly, as she turned the steering wheel to cover the sharp bend on the road. Though I was sitting right next to her, I wasn’t sure I heard that right. Did she mean Ambubachi Mela? Is she serious? While my mind was processing what I heard, immediate reactions of disbelief came from two of my sisters who were occupying the back seat of the car.
It was around this time last year when I was in my Shillong home for close to three months. It was late evening, and we were out on one of our usual sprees around the town. My cousin went on explain that she had been to Kamakhya Temple around this time on two occasions and it’s not as bad as we think.
Pic 1: The main temple
Ambubachi Mela is one of the most important festivals in eastern India. The mela held at Kamakhya Temple is one of the biggest religious congregations and is celebrated in the month of June every year. There are certain rituals that are followed during this time and as such I have been aware about the festival right from my childhood. But the thought of visiting the temple at this time never occurred to me as I always associated the mela with frenzied crowds based on all the hearsay that I have been exposed to since I was a little girl. Having absorbed all those half-baked information instilled an unknown fear in me, which was completely baseless. As a grown up though, I never deliberated over this. It was not required. Ambubachi Mela was not a place to be and that’s all I needed to know.
Pic 2: People praying all around the temple while the temple door still remained closed.
Pic 3: The crowd, all waiting eagerly for the temple door to open.
Now that my cousin had planted this seed in my mind, the adventurer and seeker in me woke up. I felt an intense desire to visit the temple during the time of Ambubachi. But chances seemed bleak, especially with the lack of support from the two seated behind. Moreover, we already had plans of visiting Sohra the next day. I kept thinking about the missed opportunity all through the evening and right into the night. I even sent out a silent prayer to Devi Ma communicating my wish and promising that I would visit her next year this time.
Devi Ma would have heard my prayers as next morning things changed quite miraculously. I shared my wish with my mother expecting a rebuke in return, instead she expressed her surprise that we were letting go of such an opportunity. My sisters too just changed their minds.
However, we were not going to miss Sohra. So, we spent the day at Sohra, came back in the evening, refreshed, and had a light dinner. Thereafter, we proceeded to Guwahati towards Kamakhya Temple.
Pic 4: Many sections of the temple remain covered by red cloth.
It was the last day (rather night) of Ambubachi Mela and the crowd was at its peak. The temple is located atop a hill and usually one would drive up the 5 Km. distance. During Ambubachi, however, vehicles are not allowed, and one has to walk up all the way. We started walking at around 1.00 AM. The entire route was packed with people even at that unearthly hour. My cousin had a fractured arm, and the sling didn’t make it any easier. Some places were easier where the road was wide enough but some places were narrow and difficult. Jostling through the crowd, exactly twice we thought we wouldn’t make it and were on the verge of giving up. Each time something unusual happened enabling us to keep walking.
Finally, with Devi Ma’s blessings, we reached the temple premise around 3.00 AM. Overwhelmed, I have no words to describe how I felt at that time. We spent around 3 hours in the temple premise. I had visited Kamakhya Temple a couple of times in the past, but it looked completely different now. Blessed is what I felt.
Pic 5: Not the best of pics but that’s us.
What is Ambubachi Mela?
Ambubachi is celebrated annually during the monsoon season around mid June, which is ‘Asadha’ month of the Hindu calendar. It is believed that the presiding goddess, Devi Kamakhya, undergoes her annual menstrual cycle during this time of the year. The temple remains closed for three days during the mela letting the Devi rest in privacy. Daily worship is suspended during this period. The doors to the ‘garbha griha’ or sanctum sanctorum are ceremoniously opened after three days accompanied by certain rituals and prayers. It is considered to be an auspicious time to enter the temple. The prasad distributed at this time is also unusual. It constitutes of two entities – Angodak and Angabastra. The former is water from the spring, which is believed to be the fluid from Devi Ma’s body. The latter is a piece of red cloth that is used to cover the revered rock fissure during the three days.
Isn’t that really fascinating! Ambubachi is indeed a unique festival. But why is this festival celebrated in Kamakhya Temple? Read on.
Located in the Nilachal Hills of Guwahati, Kamakhya is one of the oldest and most revered temples dating back to the 8th – 9th century. It is an important pilgrimage destination and has special significance for practices associated with the Tantric form of worship. It is a ‘Shakti Peetha’ – sacred sites associated with Devi.
What is ‘Shakti Peetha'?
Sati had gone to attend her father’s great yagna (fire sacrifice) despite her husband Shiva’s disapproval. Her father insulted Shiva for arriving at the yagna uninvited. Not able to bear the insult Sati committed suicide by jumping into the fire of the yagna. Enraged, Shiva carried Sati’s burnt corpse on his shoulders and performed 'tandava' or the dance of destruction. Lord Vishnu cut Sati’s body with his Sudarshan Chakra in order to stop Shiva. Sati’s body parts fell in 108 different places and 51 of those became auspicious sites, known as a ‘Shakti Peethas'. (Read more HERE)
What is Unique about Kamakhya Temple?
Devi’s ‘Yoni’ (vagina/ reproductive organs) fell in Pragjyotishpur, today’s Assam. In this place stands Kamakhya Temple. The temple thus represents the cosmic power of creation and the divine feminine energy. There is no idol of Devi at Kamakhya, instead she is worshipped as a yoni-like rock with a fissure through which there is a constant flow of water from a natural spring. Unlike usual temples, the ‘garbha griha’ is dark and is like a cave that can be approached through a flight of uneven stairs. (Read more HERE)
The river island of Majuli left us spellbound in so many ways. I have already written an elaborate post on the scenic natural beauty of Majuli. My description of Majuli would remain utterly incomplete if I do not write about the Satras. The scenic beauty of Majuli is intricately interwoven with its art and culture, a large part of which is contributed by the Satras.
Pic 1: A pond at Auniati Satra
Satras are religious and cultural institutions or monasteries dedicated to Lord Krishna. Satras date back to the 15th century when the first Satra was established by Srimanta Shankardev, the great Assamese saint and Neo-Vaishnavite reformer. Subsequently, 64 more Satras were established. Though only 22 Satras exist today. The rest were washed away by floods and erosion. Some of these have been rebuilt in other locations in Assam. The Satras are much more than just religious centers. They have shaped the culture of the island and continue to have a huge influence on the social lives of local people.
TRIVIA
A friend of mine, well versed with the culture of Majuli on account of her husband being posted there as a high govt. official, had recommended that I visit the Satras strictly in a Sari. Consequently, I landed up being in a Sari all through my Majuli trip. Something I did for the first time while on travel. And, I must say that it felt amazing!
Majuli owes much of its rich cultural heritage to the Satras. They are the hub of traditional art and folk culture, which naturally ripples all across the state of Assam. Each Satra has a distinct identity and caters to a specific art form. Over the centuries, these institutions have had significant contributions to Assamese art and culture. The classical dance form, ‘Sattriya’, and the theatre form, ‘Bhaona’, along with their associated music have been developed and preserved through these Satras over the past five centuries.
Pic 2: The quarters for the Bhaktas overlooking the pond at Dakhinpat Satra
Each Satra has its own set of residing monks who preserve its distinctive cultural significance. Their lives are dedicated to the devotion of Lord Krishna. The religious and the administrative head of a Sattra is known as ‘Sattradhikar’ and rest are known as ‘Bhakats’. The Bhaktas are responsible for various administrative, maintenance, religious, and cultural activities of the Satra. The Bhaktas are brilliant artisans too and make several items like masks, musical instruments, hand-fans, door frames, etc. The monks are quite friendly and open to having conversations with visitors.
Each Satra typically consist of a large prayer hall facing the shrine, known as ‘Naamghar’ surrounding which are dormitories or huts for the monks. Each Satra also has one or more ponds or tanks. Some Satras also offer guest accommodation, where devotees and visitors can participate in the daily worships and also watch traditional Bhaona performances.
We visited five Satras, few of the most important ones. It’s a boon that such places still exist, which not only value our culture and heritage but are working towards preserving the same. Especially in today’s era that has engulfed most of us in endless rat race and mindless consumerism.
Sri Sri Dakhinpat Satra
One of the oldest Satra, Dakhinpat was established in 1584, which is evident from some of the old structures we saw here. The ‘Naamghar’ supported by huge wooden pillars was under renovation and there was cement and sand all over. Even then, it emanated an old-world charm that was difficult to miss. Hundreds of diyas were lit on the floor making the festive season all the more prominent.
This Satra is known for preserving various types of dance forms that are performed during the festival of Raasleela, which depict the life of Lord Krishna. It is also said to house treasures and artefacts from the Ahom kings, which are not in display for public. Though they are constructing a museum where they may display some of the items. This was the first Satra we visited and consequently spent quite a bit of time. A monk even invited us for a cup of tea and provided some valuable insights about this Satra.
Pic 3: The entrance gate of Dakhinpat Satra
Pic 4: The age-old structures at Dakhinpat Satra
Pic 5: Diyas at the Naamghar, the uneven floor clearly indicating that it is under renovation.
Sri Sri Samaguri
Majuli has a unique tradition and legacy of mask-making, which is preserved and propagated by Samaguri Satra. That makes Samaguri the most fascinating of all the Satras. The masks or ‘mukhas’ represent various mythological and religious characters and are integral to ‘Bhaona’ performances. The masks are completely organic made of cane, cloth, mud, dung and are mostly used during the festival of Raasleela.
The Sattradhikar, Dr. Hem Chandra Goswami, has been instrumental in not only reviving the tradition of mask-making but bringing in many innovations, such as moveable jaws and eyes. Dr. Goswami has been acclaimed nationally and internationally for his endeavor and unique craftsmanship. He is also a recipient of the prestigious Padma Shri, India’s fourth-highest civilian award, for the year 2023. We were extremely fortunate and truly honoured to be able to meet him as he happened to be at the Satra at that time. His passion and dedication was clearly evident when he took time out to enthusiastically explain to us the intricacies of Sattriya dance and the importance of masks in Bhaona. He also demonstrated the functioning of a couple of masks and encouraged us to try them out. He went on to share about all the accolades he received, including that British Museum displayed five of his masks during an exhibition called ‘Krishna in the Garden of Assam’. All that with no hint of pride or arrogance but in complete humility, leaving us even more astonished.
Pic 6: Various types of masks are seen displayed inside Samaguri Satra
Pic 7: Entrance to Samaguri Satra (L); An artisan at work (R)
Pic 8: The various stages of creating the masks or the ‘mukhas’
Pic 9: Hand-made cane statues depicting Sattriya Dance poses (L); a huge mask in the making (R)
Pic 10: Truly honoured to meet Sattradhikar and Padma Shri, Dr. Hem Chandra Goswami who spent quite a bit of time with us explaining the use of masks and the process of their creation.
Sri Sri Uttar Kamalabari Satra
This Satra has a major contribution to the Mati Akhora and the Gayan Bayan forms of the clasical Sattriya dance. This Satra is also famous for crafting some of the finest boats of the island. Personally, I thought this was the most aesthetically designed Satra. The ornate doorways and the beautiful paintings on the life of Lord Krishna that adorned the walls of the Naamghar were captivating.
Pic 11: The ornate entrance to the Uttar Kamalabari NaamgharPic 12: Beautiful Paintings on the life of Sri Krsahna adorn the walls of the Naamghar.
Pic 13: The quarters of the Bhaktas at Uttar Kamalabari Satra
Sri Sri Garamur
This is one of the four royal Satras of the island and hence used to be quite affluent back in the days. It houses a museum that preserves ancient canons, known as ‘bortop’. The museum was closed when we visited. The inmates of this Satra are householders and not monks that have renounced the world. The same is true for Samaguri Satra as well.
Pic 14: Garuda idol and little Hanuman at Garamur Satra
Sri Sri Auniati
We arrived at this Satra early morning while it was still opening up. We walked around soaking in the early morning air through the peaceful ambience. Lord Krishna is refereed to as Govinda in this Satrra and all festivals and activities are centered around Govinda. This Satra also houses a museum that preserves ancient artefacts like old utensils, jewellery and handicrafts. The museum was however closed at that time. Auniati Satra is famous for traditional Mishing tribal dances and a congregational prayer, known as Paalnaam.
This was the first time I was going to be in Guwahati for a few days on my way home to Shillong. Over the years Guwahati has been reduced to being just a transit point for me, enroute home. I have been wanting to explore the city for a while now but that hasn’t happened yet. However, a little bit of Assam happened in the form of Majuli – and a long-standing wish was finally fulfilled.
I’m back after a prolonged blogging hiatus and what better way to restart than writing about Majuli. Also known as the ‘Cultural Capital of Assam’, Majuli is the largest river island in the world with a total area of 352 square Kilometres. Formed by the confluence of River Brahmaputra and its tributaries, the island is however shrinking due to extensive soil erosion that’s chipping away its banks. In fact, surveys have indicated that the island may cease to exist in just 15–20 years. It is a biodiversity hotspot and houses several villages. It’s a UNESCO world heritage contender too.
Pic 1: Lohit River – A tributary of River Brahmaputra
It was the second week of April, time for the most important festival of Assam – Rongali Bihu or Bohag Bihu, which celebrates the Assamese New Year. This wasn’t in my mind though when I had booked the tickets, way back in the month of February. Rather, I was concerned about the weather, as we were at the brink of Summer. Well, it turned out to be one of best times to visit Majuli – the festive season of Spring. Though locals told us Winter would be the best time for the various cultural festivals held during that time, such as, Raasleela, Majuli Festival, Magh Bihu, etc. Summers and Monsoon are not the right time to visit the island, for obvious reasons.
Pic 2: The wooden bridge we came across over Lohit River
Pic 3: The wooden bridge won’t be around long, the red flag indicates its precariousness.
Reaching Majuli
Reaching Majuli by itself is an exciting venture for city people like us, especially if you choose to take a ferry over River Brahmaputra. It takes about an hour and is really convenient. The ferries carry not just people, but vehicles too. So, you can choose to take your own car or bike. Another way to reach Majuli is through road but that’s a very long arduous drive and takes close to 10 hours. We took an overnight train from Guwahati to the town of Jorhat. There we hired an autorickshaw that dropped us to Nimati Ghat, where we boarded the first ferry that was leaving at 7.30 AM. The double-storied ferry was unusually crowded. Jostling through the crowd we managed to reach the upper deck while the ferry was well into the mighty Brahmaputra away from the shores.
What We did at Majuli
We landed at Kamalbari, the Ferry Ghat of Majuli, boarded a shared taxi and reached the homestay that we had booked. The simplicity, peaceful, and rustic charm of Majuli was immediately evident. Wrapped in anticipation, we were all set to explore the mystical island in the next two days. One of the two days happened to be my birthday and I hadn’t planned to be here. It was the best coincidence.
Pic 4: It was green and only green wherever the eyes looked.
Pic 5: An algae covered reddish brown pond, the white dots are flower petals from a particular tree. I don not know the name of the tree or flower. These petals were strewn all over Majuli at that time.
An ideal way to explore the island is on a two-wheeler. This will enable you to traverse through the narrow pathways of the village interiors. A car can limit your experience to a large extent. Consequently, we rented a two-wheeler, which became our companion for the next two days. We had no particular plan or itinerary and simply rambled around Majuli’s green fields and straight roads, literally going wherever our eyes took us. We did plan to visit the Satras, a few of which we had shortlisted. Satras are religious and cultural institutions or monasteries dedicated to Lord Vishnu that profoundly influence the social lives of local people. Satras deserve a separate post where I’ll write in greater detail. (Read Here)
Pic 6: Another algae covered pond, with the boat making it quite picturesque.
Pic 7: White Lotus blooming in a pond at one of the Satras (Dakshinpat Satra)
Majuli felt like a bride draped in green! She was gorgeous and vibrant. Anywhere we looked green was all that we saw. Soothingly refreshed we kept riding all day long ingesting Nature’s calming bounty so much so that we even missed having lunch on the first day. Now and then we would just take a turn from the main road and explore the narrow pathways through the interiors of the island.
Pic 8: We saw most of the houses built on bamboo stilts. This one was a resort though.
Pic 9: Peaceful vibes emanate everywhere in the island.
It being the time of Bihu, we had the unique opportunity to experience Assam’s rich culture through the traditional Bihu Dance. The invigorative dance celebrates the vitality of Spring and is performed by groups of young men and women. At Majuli, we found groups of little children dancing around the lanes and bylanes in their traditional Assamese attires – the red and beige mekhela chador (the tribal children wore mekhela chadors of various colours). They had no qualms about dancing for us, as well, each and every time we requested a group. The tradition is they dance and you offer them a small sum of Rs 50 or so as a token of your appreciation.
Majuli is home to many tribes – Misings, Deoris, Sonowal, and Kacharis. Of these, Misings are predominant. We had plans of touring at least one tribal village but we gave that a miss as our random meanderings was turning out to be more fun and interesting. On the second day, we spent the afternoon hours on the banks of Lohit, which is a tributary of Brahmaputra. The quietude of Lohit left us spellbound and those 2-3 hours was like a lifetime of peace and solitude.
Pic 11: The banks of Lohit River had a lot to offer, it was a photographer’s paradise.
My friend, R, who was with me on the trip spent most of that time laying down on a patch of green grass on the banks of the river. I, on the other hand wandered around and met a couple of women from the Mising tribe. Since I can speak Assamese, language was no barrier. We exchanged stories and got a glimpse into each other’s’ lives. A group of three chatted with me while they collected some kind of specific leaves from the vegetation around the river bank. This was in preparation for a village feast they had that evening. They even invited me to their home. Then, I watched two other women catching fish that lay hidden in the clusters of water Hyacinth. I had no idea what they were doing until they explained it to me. It was a wonderful afternoon, one that I will never forget.
Pic 12: Mising women collect leaves from the vegetation around Lohit River
Pic 13: Another group of women catch fish from the water Hyacinths floating on Lohit River.
We spent the evenings watching sunset over River Brahmaputra. Sun down and the island is all quiet, there’s nothing much to do anymore. We did try riding around in the dark but that was quite boring and we gave up.
Majuli’s food is worth a mention too, especially the fresh fish and the rice beer or Apong. Unfortunately, we happened to miss the latter due to reasons that aren’t worth mentioning in this post. Well, there will be a next time and that’s for sure.
Pic 14: Sun sets at Kamalbari Ghat over Brahmaputra River.
Pic 15: Houses built on bamboo stilts to protect from the floods.
Majuli’s peaceful and tranquil vibe pervades my senses even now as I write about it. It’s simply meditative!
I leave you with two of my Instagram posts, if you are interested to know more. First one for Bihu Dance and second one for the scenic nature.
As I sit to write my year end blog post I can’t help but quote Charles Dickens – “It was the best of times, it was the worst of times.” The latter seemingly more prominent in my case for the year 2022. It was an eventful year but mostly for the wrong reasons and my woes are far from over even though the year has ended. Year-end, of course, has nothing to do with the phases in life that happen at different intervals of time. Year-ends or beginnings are simply man-made concepts. When I was younger, I was naïve enough to think that year ends and beginnings are significant as they herald fresh and new changes in one’s life.
Here’s a quick snapshot of the year 2022, as it happened to me.
It was a year of one crisis after the other in my personal life, healthwise, jobwise, familywise. None of those are meant for this space because down the line tough times will cease to exist and it’s the good that will be remembered.
A significant incident of this year has been acquiring my Yoga Teacher Certification, accredited by AYUSH Ministry, Govt. of India. The strangest part is that it just happened. Being a Yoga teacher was nowhere in my remotest radar. My love for Yoga took off to another level with all the new knowledge and understanding I gained.
I have embarked upon my journey of teaching Yoga with two of my sisters being my first students. With my limited experience, I find great peace in teaching Yoga, even more than doing Yoga. The reason, I’m certain, is because one needs to be 100% mindful while teaching, there is no other way. And, my Guinea Pigs gave given me very good feedback. They look forward to my yoga sessions.
Staying in my Shillong home for more than 2 months was the sweetest aspect of this year. My cousins being there as well for the entire duration only added to the good times. Especially all the explorations we did in the monsoon of Meghalaya – most notably the waterfalls. I am yet to write about all them all.
One of the most unique experiences of this year was our visit to Kamakhya Temple during Ambubachi Mela. Experiencing the festivities of Ambubachi Mela is not something I had ever imagined in my life. I will write in a detailed post about the Mela, which is a very important festival of the state of Assam.
My maiden staycation experience happened this year too.
The most cherished travel memory of 2022 is certainly our visit to Goa, where we travelled by train passing via Dudhsagar in the month of July during the peak of monsoon. I’m yet to write about this one too.
Our trip to Udupi during the Independence Day weekend was a sudden plan that worked out incredibly well. Not only did we discover the quietude of the lesser known Mattu Beach but we also happened to visit the ancient Sharada Peetham – located in Sringeri, it is one of the four Shankaracharya Mutts, established by Adi Shankaracharya himself.
The day outings I did in and around Bangalore definitely need a special mention, especially traveling on a local train and going to Bangarpet and hiking on Avathi Betta. I am yet to write about the latter.
This was the first year in my more than a decade long Bangalore inhabitancy that I celebrated Durga Puja with a lot of fun and fervour.
I joined a new job, something I was forced to do by circumstances and not out of choice. The company I worked at for the last one year was acquired and our jobs were at stake. Gratitude to Almighty for having found an alternative. Though am still struggling to settle down even after four months.
Lastly and most importantly I have been extraordinarily fortunate to have taken a significant step towards progression on my spiritual quest. I will leave out the details but hope I do justice to the blessings I have received.
2022, ridden with all the difficulties, has been one of the toughest years of my life. My blog has taken a hit too as I couldn’t write much though I have a lot to write about. However, reading whatever I have just written makes me smile. Let’s see what 2023 has in store. As of this moment, I want to remain hopeful and keep the positivity in me up and running while expressing my gratitude to the Supreme Force that drives this universe.
The weekend was here, and we did not have any specific plans. There’s nothing much to do in Bangalore, anyway! We didn’t want another day of mindless wandering around Jayanagar and JP Nagar. Though it’s something we had been enjoying of late – traversing the lanes and bylanes underneath the soothing comfort of the large canopies of age-old trees that line many of these streets. Scattered here and there are many parks, all refreshing spots of green. The old-time houses stand in sharp contrast with the ones renovated to spacious and lovely bungalows. Things that more than often spark interesting conversations, as we watch life happen in the streets of Bangalore. All of these with my good friend R, a proud native of Karnataka, who always comes up with some interesting cultural insights and anecdotes.
Pic 1: The sun was about to set when we arrived at Bangarapet
It was during these walks that I got introduced to many kinds of authentic Bangalorean food. The result of not being a foodie was that I never had much idea about the varied range of Kannadiga cuisine even after being here for more than a decade. R is a foodie and as a result our casual weekend sprees always lead to discovery of some good eating joints too – roadside as well as fine dining.
And, whenever we savoured chaats, R would invariably say, “I’ll take you to Bangarapet one day”. Bangarapet Chaats are very commonly found in Bangalore. One can spot that banner in almost every lane and street.
Pic 2: A few of the famous Bangarpet Chaats
So, this Saturday we decided to go to Bangarapet to sample the chaats at their place of origin. I was, however, more interested in exploring the town than its legendary chaats. And no surprises at that! R grew up in a township very close to Bangarapet and even lived in the town for a couple of years during his childhood. Naturally, the place stands very special for him.
Located in Kolar district of Karnataka, Bangarapet is about 90 Km. away from Bangalore. We could have driven down but decided to take a suburban train instead. That got me even more excited! Afterall, we hardly travel in trains these days.
Pic 3: The train was relatively empty when we boarded but soon enough it was jam packed.
Travelling in the crowded suburban train for two hours turned out to be the most interesting experience of the trip. Scores of people commute in this manner everyday and I don’t mean to undermine the trouble they may go through. It could be all good though. At least they don’t have to struggle with traffic jams and all its associated problems. We boarded a Chennai bound train. This was the second time in my life that I was onboard a local train. The first time was about a decade ago when we had traveled to Murshidabad from Kolkata.
Pic 4: Several such colourful flower shops all around the town that make you pause in admiration.
The train was relatively empty when we boarded as it was at the station of origin. As the train started moving and we passed by two other stations in Bangalore, it got fully crowded.
I was comfortably seated at a window seat that gave me the best of views outside and even somewhat shielded me from the jostling crowd. Though I was equally interested in observing people and experiencing all the things that were happening inside the train – incessant chattering, strangers smiling and almost starting a conversation, some even managing video calls with their near and dear ones, hawkers calling out in their typical sing song manner, and so much more. It was like getting transported to childhood days when trains used to be the preferred mode of travel. Now even on those rare train travels you hardly get to experience such small little things.
Pic 5: Simply fell in love with these dilapidated old structures in one of the lanes.
Pic 6: The dilapidated building in its entireity.
We started our Bangarapet sojourn by having a very good chai (tea) at the platform. R claims it’s the best platform chai one can get! And I had to agree, as it was perfect.
Bangarapet is a very small town. It’s quite like the size of a neighbourhood in Bangalore. There are just 4-5 streets and one can easily walk through the entire town in less than an hour. It reminded me of the common Hindi adage of – shuru hone se pehle hi khatam ho jata hai (ends even before it starts).
Nothing distinctive about the town other than the chaat stalls liberally scattered all over in various shapes and sizes. We sampled a wide variety of chaats. Some were good others not so much. However, it’s the hot and spicy water served in small glasses, which is unique about Bangarapet chaats. The water is clear and transparent and can easily pass on as ordinary water till the spice knocks your nostrils so hard that it leaves you baffled for a while. It has the taste of ginger, garlic, cinnamon, cloves, chilies – hot, salty, and tangy all at once!
Pic 7: Thats’s us. A quick selfie before the train got over-crowded.
What are Chaats?
Chaat or chat is the collective name of a spicy and tangy category of roadside savoury snack found in India. This popular mouth-watering snack that originated in the state of Uttar Pradesh is prepared in various combinations. It may contain vegetables of the likes of tomatoes, potatoes, onions, peas, etc. It must contain some kind of crunchy and crispy base or topping or both. Mostly, it will be accompanied by curd and sweet and sour watery dips of various kinds.
“Rabindranath lived in this bungalow”, I commented as we passed by the iconic heritage home located about a kilometer from my house. We paused at the large iron gate to read the black granite plaque that had the name ‘Jitbhumi’ engraved on it. “I heard this place has got some new owners”, I continued. “I hope they give this place its due and maintain it as is”. It was then that we noticed Tagore’s bust, just beyond the gate. Now this was something new, I hadn’t seen it before. Clearly, the new owners (a doctor couple) do understand the value of this property. Just then a man, clad in a security guard’s attire, appeared and started walking swiftly towards us. We were all set to be shooed away. Instead, the guard opened the gate and ushered us in. While entry inside the house was not allowed, we were happy to walk and look around the property. So, visitors are allowed in here.
Pic 1: Tagore’s bust at the entrance
Pic 2: Some description
We all know Kabiguru Rabindranath Tagore, the legendary poet, who was also a writer, novelist, dramatist, composer, philosopher, social reformer, and painter. The iconic figure of Indian cultural renaissance, who was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1912 for Gitanjali – a collection of poems, originally written in Bengali and later translated into English.
But, how many of us know that the multitalented personality had a deep connection with Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya!
Tagore visited Shillong not just once, but thrice in 1919, 1923, and 1927. No other hill station has had the privilege of hosting the illustrious poet so many times. Several iconic literary creations emerged from these three visits. The classic master piece romantic novel, Shesher Kobita, for e.g., is set in the backdrop of Shillong, though Tagore wrote it during a trip to South India. Raktakarobi and Shillonger Chiti are the other well-known creations associated with his Shillong visit. Shillonger Chiti is a true representation of how profoundly Tagore’s poetic sense was captivated by the innate natural beauty of Shillong.
In his memoirs, the poet describes the winding road to Shillong as ‘aka – baka – poth’ with eye catching forests on either side. He celebrates the unique aroma of the Pine trees and is charmed by the Rhododendrons of the evergreen Khasi Hills. Shillong’s calmness and tranquillity surrounded by Pine and Deodar trees reflects well in all such Tagore’s work.
Pic 3: The entrance gate
Tagore was already a global celebrity when he first arrived at Shillong. However, it’s a pity that the city did not give the bard his due welcome. Shillong was then the capital of Assam and was under the administration of British Government. It was a time when the political scenario of the country was in a very disturbed state. Tagore had denounced his Knighthood as a protest to the inhumanly cruel Jallianwala Bagh massacre of April 1918 when the British Army had opened indiscriminate fire killing 400 innocent Indians and leaving several thousand injured. Many people in Shillong probably avoided his company lest they offend the British rulers. It is said that Tagore was upset with the attitude of people but that did not diminish his adoration for Shillong. During his first visit, Tagore stayed for 20 days at a bungalow known as Brookside, which is now owned by the Art and Culture Department of Meghalaya Government.
Pic 4: The Assam type heritage home
It was during his second visit, that Tagore stayed at ‘Jitbhumi’ for two months, which at that time belonged to his niece. He was just back from a year-long trip to Europe and America. It was during his time here that he wrote Raktakarobi (Red Oleanders), a drama reflecting his experience of the largely mechanical and materialistic life in the West. A significant event during this second visit was the celebration of Tagore’s birthday on the 8th of May, 1923.
That ‘Jitbhumi’ owners have retained the bungalow in its original form and preserved many of his precious memories speaks volumes about their admiration and respect towards the renowned poet.
Pic 5: Another view
During his third and final visit in May-June 1927, Tagore stayed at Solomon Villa, later renamed as Sidli House in Upland Road, Laitumkhrah. During this time, he composed the novel Tinpurush, which he later renamed as Yogayog. He penned a few poems too. The letters he wrote to friends and family are also preserved. This heritage house no longer exists.
Besides Tagore, Shillong has also been fortunate to host Swami Vivekananda and Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose. However, it’s extremely unfortunate that there has been no effort to preserve the heritage homes where people of such stature have stayed. Most are destroyed. It’s a blessing therefore that ‘Jitbhumi’ is owned by people who understand and value the glorious heritage linked to eminent distinguished people, like Tagore.
Disclaimer: The information on Tagore’s Shillong visits is sourced from various news articles in the Internet.
Our auto took a turn and quite unexpectedly we found ourselves on a narrow but perfectly tarred road that was lined with coconut trees on one side and the vast Arabian Sea on the other. Peeping through the coconut trees and scattered all along were quaint little colourful houses painted in red, blue, yellow, pink. It was the long weekend of Independence Day and we were gallivanting around Udupi.
Rajesh, our auto driver, did mention that he was about to take us to a place that we would really like but we hadn’t paid much attention thinking that he hardly knew what would interest us. And, here we were in a state of complete euphoria mesmerized with the scenic and picturesque setting around us. We had grossly underestimated Rajesh’s capability of gauging the interests of tourists riding with him and customising the trips accordingly. His experience and zest in delighting his customers is something he repeatedly proved to us in the next few days.
Pic 1: Quaint houses peeping through coconut trees lined up alongside the backwaters.
Sensing our excitement, Rajesh stopped the auto somewhere in the middle of nowhere. It was only when we stepped out that we saw the backwaters beyond the coconut trees. The narrow strip of road was flanked by coconut trees, palm trees, and backwaters on one side and the deep blue sea on the other. Nature has uniquely blessed this place. There were very few people around and it wasn’t the least bit touristy making it the most pleasant place at that moment. There were no hawkers, no shops, no restaurants. The air was filled with the gentle sound of waves splashing into the golden sands, the swishing coconut trees dancing to the tune of the breeze emanating from the sea, and the pleasantly fluttering Indian Flag – it was the day before Independence Day.
Pic 2: What can be more refreshing than strolling on roads like this!
Pic 3: The narrow road flanked by coconut trees and backwaters on one side and the sea on the other.
Pic 4: A view of the backwaters.
The thought that I had never heard about this beach before was astonishing, especially in this digital age of social media. Such a charming beach remains lesser known is a blessing till word spreads and it gets discovered. I just hope the beach remains empty as it is today, which is a possibility so long eateries and hawkers don’t set up shop here. Thoroughly delighted to discover this hidden gem, we had clearly fallen in love with this place. The blissful, pristine, clean, and quiet surroundings exuded the perfect therapeutic feeling of peace and joy. The next few days saw us coming here at least once every single day and spending time in nature’s heavenly solitude.
Just two weeks before I had been to South Goa, which is known for its stunning white sandy beaches, clear blue seas, swaying palm trees, and the amazing sea food. Therefore, it was only natural for me to make a quick comparison of the beaches in South Goa to Mattu Beach. The latter won hands on for reasons more than one. The soulful and serene Mattu Beach is grossly underrated, which is not a bad thing at all, especially for travellers seeking to enjoy nature’s inherent quietude.
Pic 5: The entire stretch of the beach is separated into smaller coves by artificial rock walkways that extend onto the sea.
Pic 6: Clean and simmering golden sands, something that I haven’t seen in any other Indian beach for quite some time.
The 30 Km. long Mattu Beach is also well known for bio luminescence – the sea sparkles at sun down because of the production and emission of light by some bio-luminescent microorganisms. Unfortunately, I got to know of this only after getting back to Bangalore when my friend, unable to get Mattu Beach out of her mind, went into a research mode and started reading up about the place. That was certainly a big miss for us as we never stayed back after sundown. Well, I will certainly visit Mattu Beach once again and bio luminescence will be an additional attraction.
Pic 7: There wasn’t a lot of sun those days and mostly the sky remained overcast, yet we got to witness brilliant play of colours everyday at sunset.
Staycation – nah! Not my kind of thing! Why would I spend so much money on a fancy resort or hotel in my own city! Not something I’ll ever do. Or so, I thought.
It must be a year ago or may be two when I heard this word for the first time – STAYCATION, a portmanteau of the words Stay and Vacation. Travel hadn’t opened up fully until then and I would find colleagues off on staycations with their families or friends. When someone explained to me what a staycation entailed, it didn’t appeal much to me. Sure, it worked great for them, especially with their young kids, but it wasn’t for me.
If you surf the Internet, you will find various definitions of staycation. Wikipedia says, it’s about staying at home and participating in leisure activities within day trip distance of your home that doesn’t require overnight accommodation. Merriam Webster says, it’s a vacation spent at home or nearby. Somewhere I also read, it’s a vacation close to your hometown or in your home country rather than travelling abroad. Merriam Webster has even traced the first usage of the word staycationand interestingly, it dates way back to the year 1944. So, the trend of staycation may not be as new as we think it is.
Take a Stay-cation instead of a Va-cation, this year.
— Cincinnati Enquirer, 18 July 1944
[Source: Merriam Webster]
My interpretation of staycation, based on what I see people around me doing, is staying at a hotel or resort in your home city. This felt like a weird concept to me. It was a complete waste of precious holiday time. Must be stemming from my acute love for the outdoors.
I have been told that staycation need not necessarily have to be limited to staying at a hotel or resort with your family and loved ones. It doesn’t have to be just an indoor activity. It could also include short drives and hikes in the surrounding areas. Well, isn’t it just another vacation then? My brain hurts, it’s confusing. Ah! It’s vacation when it’s another city, staycation when it’s the home city. I suppose I got it right. But, did I?
To add to my confusion, the tourism industry is abuzz with terminologies like workcation, homecation, daycation, and what not. While I was comparing, contrasting, and trying to make sense of these post-Covid travel terminologies, I found myself in the midst of a staycation.
I had to visit Guwahati a couple of times during my extended stay at my home in Shillong. A few of my friends live in Guwahati but more often than not I have to miss meeting them because of competing priorities. There’s one friend though, who never misses to catch up with me each time I pass by Guwahati, even if it is for a few minutes. And, ironically, she happens to be the busiest of them all. This time, both of us had the luxury of a little more time – the afternoon of that day until forenoon, the next day. Incidentally, a common friend also happened to arrive at Guwahati that day. The three of us were meeting after a very long time and we had loads to catch up on. I presumed that we were going to spend most of the time at my friend’s home in Guwahati.
My friend threw up a big surprise by announcing that she had booked a room at a luxury hotel in Guwahati and that’s where we would put up for our time together. And, when three women are together after a very long gap what happens is anybody’s guess – talk nineteen to the dozen – an activity that’s completely in tune with the concept of staycation.
The impromptu staycation planned by my friend turned out to be the best decision. We got to spend such quality time with each other. All three of us were fully absorbed and completely focused on each other. There was no concern for food, no worries about tidying up the place, no diversion with anything or anybody interfering and taking away our time.
My maiden staycation turned out to be a lot of fun and quite an eye-opener too. Now, I can say with some authority that staycation sure has its merits. And, I learnt for the nth time to be open to ideas and not be opinionated or biased towards things that I haven’t experienced yet.
So absorbed we were with ourselves that we had no time for pictures, but here’s two for memory’s sake.
Seasons of Life! 